So pervasive is the shade now known as Provence rosé that you almost wonder if that’s what Homer had in mind when writing of Odysseus’s “rosy-fingered dawn.” Of course not, but still—that wonderfully evocative Homeric turn of phrase applies beautifully to the rosé wines of Provence whose ubiquitous pale pink rose hue has become the desirable shade for rosé wines the world over.
According to Alexis Cornu, winemaker for Château de Berne and Ultimate Provence amongst others, “This very old wine region [of Provence] is experiencing a sort of revival. There’s a fresh mindset—with respect to tradition, of course—which has allowed for changes in viticulture and viticulture practices and a new way to enjoy the fine wines.”
During the past decade, rosé wines have become increasingly popular in the States, with the U.S. second only to France in terms of global rosé consumption. As the largest retail wine market in the world, the U.S. consumes 13% of all rosé wines worldwide (with 20% of that total imported into the metropolitan New York area).
Some decades ago when I was a university student in Montpellier in the South of France, rosé wines were often associated with sweet effervescent wines such as Lancer’s Rosé from Portugal. No longer. Various factors, including the “fresh mindset” mentioned by winemaker Cornu and the awareness that rosé wines work equally well in winter months, have completely altered Americans’ perception of rosé wines—which are now experiencing the fastest growth in all categories of wine consumption. Now, more often than not, rosé wines evoke the chic insouciance of the South of France.
What has made rosé so alluring to many budding oenophiles is the wine’s appealing color and accessible flavor, alongside an attractive price point. The rosé wines from Provence Rosé Group, for example, combine a lively freshness with an intensity of flavor alongside an adherence to quality established by Provence’s viticultural heritage.
Château de Berne Inspiration 2018: With a slightly bolder salmon pink tint and a square-cut faceted bottle, Château de Berne Inspiration 2018 makes a seductive entrance. The inspiration for the bottle derives from the Château de Berne’s iconic 12th-century squared watchtower, constructed when most towers were round.
With a viticulture history that dates to the Romans, the 1,235-acre Château de Berne estate encompasses 330 acres of vines alongside a five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant and an award-winning spa. Sheltered by pine forests and lavender fields, Château de Berne’s vineyards face southward, absorbing over 3,000 hours of annual sunshine.
Composed of Grenache (50%), Cinsault (30%), and Syrah (20%), Château de Berne Inspiration 2018 is a classic Provence rosé with a fresh, floral nose redolent of garrigue and morning lavender. In the mouth there’s fresh, muddled strawberry with hints of creamy mint alongside a vibrant acidity. A medium-bodied rosé, this twenty-dollar pleaser lingers on the palate with a bright basil finish, all of which makes for a pleasing pairing with lobster.
Ultimate Provence 2018 Rosé: Bottled in a distinctive ridged glass vessel that recalls Lalique crystal parfum flacons, Ultimate Provence Rosé 2018 is a beauty to behold. Amidst the pale pink onionskin hue, flecks of copper catch the light with a parfait of raspberry and strawberry on the nose.
An oenophile’s oasis, Ultimate Provence (aka UP) opened in June 2019 at the vineyard formerly known as Château des Launes established forty years ago. With vines that date to 1956, Ultimate Provence cultivates five grape varieties on 115 acres, all of which are in the process of becoming 100% organic. UP’s annual production is 480 million bottles with 50% exported to the United States.
The estate’s Ultimate Provence Hotel encompasses 23 rooms, six studios, and five apartments surrounded by swimming pool, fitness club, outdoor lounge bar, and restaurant—all nestled amidst a bucolic Provençal landscape of vineyards, forests, and mountains less than an hour’s drive from St. Tropez.
Fortunately, there’s equal elegance within the glass—and Ultimate Provence Rosé 2018 is as seductive on the palate as it is in the bottle. There’s a white pepper spiciness from the Syrah that nicely balances the red currant and strawberry flavors. Composed of Grenache Noir (30%), Cinsault (30%), and Syrah (30%), it’s the Rolle (10%) that provides a bright acidity and a zesty tangerine finish. A perfect hostess gift for about $25 dollars, Ultimate Provence Rosé 2018 pairs well with barbeque, grilled vegetables, or charcuterie.
Château de Berne Estate 2018: For another perspective on rosé’s potential, consider Château de Berne Estate 2018 which is produced from a single vineyard of high-elevation vines in the heart of the Berne estate. In keeping with the wine’s palest pink hue, Château de Berne Estate 2018 is as much an exemplary dry wine as it is a rosé.
Château de Berne’s winemaker Cornu selects the grapes for a night harvest from some of the estate’s oldest vines on the plateau to create this complex beauty notable for aromas of raspberry, rosemary, and mint. Composed of Grenache Noir (70%), Carignan Noir (14%), Syrah (8%), and Cinsault (8%), this is a rosé with a pleasing roundness on the palate with wintry citrus notes followed by a lovely basil and watermelon finish.
Aged in new French oak for four months prior to blending, Château de Berne Estate 2018 is appealing in its austerity and restraint, serving as a reminder of rosé’s refined capabilities, particularly as a pairing for winter cassoulets and game. With a retail price of about thirty dollars, this wine merits its elegant presentation in black label and black neck collar.
At Mondrian Park Avenue in Manhattan, the hotel’s rooftop Mondrian Terrace showcases Provence Rosé wines in an elegant al fresco setting complemented by sunset views in those signature rosé wine hues.
For further testament to rosé wine’s ongoing renaissance in the States, there’s the annual La Nuit en Rosé, which attracts more than 7,000 people to events in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, and the Hamptons for the world’s first festival devoted exclusively to rosé wine.
