Opened in 2004 by the gifted Paiwanese singer, Chiu Jin-Ming, Gulu Gulu offers traditional Paiwan dishes in a setting that is as bohemian as a local eatery on Maui or a coffeehouse in Berkeley, California. The decor features driftwood sculptures and brightly-colored murals, as well as painted stones – and the vibe is as relaxing as a surf shack on the ocean.
A small stage on the first floor provides space for impromptu performances by the velvet-voiced Chiu whose warm and ingratiating manner serves as a perfect complement to his aboriginal comfort food.
Meals commence with a small glass of millet wine to prime the palate for a parade of beautifully-plated courses that are as stimulating as they are toothsome and tasty. “Ah vai,” a mixture of millet and vegetables arrives steamed in leaves and wrapped in twine, before releasing a heavenly fragrance above the table.
There’s an easy elegance about Gulu Gulu, which affords a renewed respect for aboriginal customs that celebrate the gifts of Mother Earth. By evening’s end, you might find yourself onstage playing the bongos while Chiu serenades the room with his soulful songs.
